How to prune English climbers
Follow our top tips for pruning, training and tying-in English Climbing Roses to help you get the most out of your rose
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WHEN TO PRUNE ROSES
We recommend pruning in June or July, when the first growth is beginning. It is ok to prune earlier, but it can be more difficult to identify the less healthy stems that you will want to prune out. If you still haven’t pruned by August it is still better to do so.
STRUCTURES & SUPPORT
Climbing roses will need a support upon which to grow.
Generally you have two choices:HOW TO PRUNE A CLIMBING ROSE
The two important elements when pruning climbers are:
CLIMBERS GROWING ON FIXED STRUCTURES
Before planting, we recommend attaching horizontal wires to your wall which you will use to tie back the stems. Attach the wires at two feet intervals up the wall. Initially, three wires will suffice. As your rose grows taller you will need to add additional wires.
Year One
We define Year One as any rose that has completed its first season of flowering.
At this stage your rose will still be establishing its roots to support growth in the future, thus only very light pruning is required.
Step 1 – cut away any growth that is growing away from the structure that cannot be tied back.
Step 2 – the ‘four D’s’ – remove any dead, dying, damaged and diseased stems.
Step 3 – pull down the longer stems to 45 degrees or more and tie against your wires.
Step 4 – remove any remaining leaves to reduce the risk of disease spores being carried over.
We define Year One as any rose that has completed its first season of flowering.
At this stage your rose will still be establishing its roots to support growth in the future, thus only very light pruning is required.
Step 1 – cut away any growth that is growing away from the structure that cannot be tied back.
Step 2 – the ‘four D’s’ – remove any dead, dying, damaged and diseased stems.
Step 3 – pull down the longer stems to 45 degrees or more and tie against your wires.
Step 4 – remove any remaining leaves to reduce the risk of disease spores being carried over.
Year Two
This is a year for a climber to fully establish.
- Step 1 – cut away any growth that is growing away from the structure that cannot be tied back.
- Step 2 – if your climber is very vigorous and getting congested, cut away more of the weakest growth.
- Step 3 – cut back old flowering stems to about 6 inches from the main stem.
- Step 4 – the ‘four D’s’ – remove any dead, dying, damaged and diseased stems.
- Step 5 – pull down the longer stems to 45 degrees or more and tie against your wires
- Step 6 – remove any remaining leaves to reduce the risk of disease spores being carried over.
This is a year for a climber to fully establish.
- Step 1 – cut away any growth that is growing away from the structure that cannot be tied back.
- Step 2 – if your climber is very vigorous and getting congested, cut away more of the weakest growth.
- Step 3 – cut back old flowering stems to about 6 inches from the main stem.
- Step 4 – the ‘four D’s’ – remove any dead, dying, damaged and diseased stems.
- Step 5 – pull down the longer stems to 45 degrees or more and tie against your wires
- Step 6 – remove any remaining leaves to reduce the risk of disease spores being carried over.
Year Three
- Repeat the steps outlined for Year Two.
- In addition, cut out any old or weak stems at the base of the plant.
- Repeat the steps outlined for Year Two.
- In addition, cut out any old or weak stems at the base of the plant.
CLIMBERS GROWING ON DECORATIVE STRUCTURES
Obelisks– wind the strong stems growing from the base around your structure so that the stems spiral around it. This is much easier when the stems are young, soft and pliable.
Arches– follow the same method as for wall climbers but tie-in to your arch. Be sure not to tip the tops of the leading stems – you want your climber to grow as long as possible.
KEY POINTS
Remember these key points to ensure effective pruning:
- Don’t worry about where you cut a stem. Accepted wisdom suggests cutting just above a leaf joint with a sloping cut away from the bud. However, there is no evidence to prove this is necessary.
- Don’t worry about cutting back too much. Roses are extremely strong and will grow back.
- Carefully dispose of foliage. Foliage should never be composted and should be removed from your garden. This ensures spores that can initiate disease are removed from your garden.
- Look out for loose roses. Look out for any roses that are loose in the ground due to the wind rocking them to the point where they are no longer standing upright. Firm around the base of each loose rose and cut them back a little more to reduce wind resistance.