How to prune an established climbing rose


In this section we show you how to prune an established climbing rose.  When we use the term ‘established’ we mean a rose that has flowered for two or more years.

Our videos are filmed in the UK, and so some of the season timings mentioned will apply to the UK and some of the products featured won't be available in Australia. Don't hesitate to get in touch with us if you have any questions, or contact your local stockist.

Step 1 - To begin, identify the side stems of your rose that you will need to prune. These will be growing off the long, thick stems at the base of the rose which provide the structure. Prune the side stems back to the main stem, leaving around 5-7.5 cm inches.
Step 2 - Continue to work across the climber, removing any weak stems completely, as these won’t hold a bloom in the summer. If you notice any dead stems, which will be thick and brown, cut these off at the base of the rose. Also, make sure to remove any foliage as you prune.
Step 3 - As you prune your way across the climber you will notice new, strong stems that require tying-in. Tying the stems of your rose to its supporting structure helps it to climb, keeping it secure and preventing the stems from breaking. We recommend wrapping the flexi-tie around the supporting structure first and then tying in the stem to ensure stability. These strong stems will add further structure to your climber and will carry blooms when the season arrives.


WHEN TO PRUNE

We recommend pruning in June or July, when the first growth is beginning. It is ok to prune earlier, but it can be more difficult to identify the less healthy stems that you will want to prune out. If you still haven’t pruned by August it is still better to do so.


Year 1

We define Year One as any rose that has completed its first season of flowering.

At this stage your rose will still be establishing its roots to support growth in the future, thus only very light pruning is required.

  • Step 1 – cut away any growth that is growing away from the structure that cannot be tied back.
  • Step 2 – the ‘four D’s’ – remove any dead, dying, damaged and diseased stems.
  • Step 3 – pull down the longer stems to 45 degrees or more and tie against your wires.
  • Step 4 – remove any remaining leaves to reduce the risk of disease spores being carried over.
Year 2

This is a year for a climber to fully establish.

  • Step 1 – cut away any growth that is growing away from the structure that cannot be tied back.
  • Step 2 – if your climber is very vigorous and getting congested, cut away more of the weakest growth.
  • Step 3 – cut back old flowering stems to about 6 inches from the main stem.
  • Step 4 – the ‘four D’s’ – remove any dead, dying, damaged and diseased stems.
  • Step 5 – pull down the longer stems to 45 degrees or more and tie against your wires
  • Step 6 – remove any remaining leaves to reduce the risk of disease spores being carried over.

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